In Which Our Heroine Suffers A Setback...

Sometimes you just have to love a country for its umbrellas.

Sometimes you have to stop shopping so your rickshaw driver can go pick up his daughter at school.

Sometimes you spend a little more on the henna than you really have to ...but the little girl who does it is adorable, and you spend an hour in her house and you want her and her family to have the money.

Sometimes you have pancakes and mango ice cream for breakfast. Sometimes it's lemon crepes and tea.

And sometimes you get bitten by a rabid dog on the streets of Udaipur, necessitating an immediate flight to Delhi, the only city in the whole country that has rabies immunoglobulin. Sometimes you luck out because you're western and (comparatively) wealthy and able to throw money and resources at a problem that kills people here at an alarming rate.

Suck it, rabies.